Following a whirlwind couple of days in Bangkok, which was more than enough, I shuffled off to Northern Thailand for a week. I originally had a very, very long train ride booked from Bangkok to Chiang Mai and ended up changing my mind. I took a much shorter, and probably more comfortable, plane up to the north.
As soon as I walked off the plane I picked up a SIM card for my phone.
Should you do this? - That depends! Are you traveling by yourself? Would you like to be able to call tuk-tuk drivers out on their swindles while trying to get around?
If yes, then get one.
I think that the SIM card I got was 100% worth it. There are only a few options, but they're right there when you get off the airplane. I think that you can also purchase SIM cards at 7-11 stores and other places, but the airport was convenient for me.
If you end up meeting long-term travelers be prepared to hear some judgmental comments about "always needing to be plugged in." Long-term travelers seem to hold on to some "holier than thou" ideas because they're too cheap to buy a SIM card. I clearly have a chip on my shoulder about some comments I received.
Chiang Mai Where I stayed: Bunk Boutique Hostel (2 nights total) Stamps Backpackers (2 nights) Nonni Guesthouse (1 night)
The first thing I did in Chiang Mai was: have a Thai massage. They're amazing and I wish I could have one twice a week. The place I went to in Chiang Mai is run by female former convicts. Yep, you read that correctly. Former prison inmates giving massages.
On my way to my massage, I was happily walking down the street when I witnessed a car accident. There might as well be no laws for drivers. In this instance, one person blasted through an intersection and hit a songthaew straight on.
Thai massages are no joke. I had a handful throughout my 2.5 weeks in Thailand and walked away with a couple of bruises. The women who give massages don't take "I have a knot" for an answer. That knot will be running away screaming after 30 minutes.
These massages aren't like your classic, luxurious spa massages in the rest of the world. I heard many people complain about the fact that the people giving massages are 1) all in one room and 2) talk to each other while giving massages
Neither of these things bothered me because I can expertly tune things out and I don't understand Thai, so I wasn't focused on what they were saying. It might not be a soothing language to listen to because they constantly sound angry, but if you can manage to focus on your massage then it really isn't an issue.
Massages might seem like a luxury, but they're cheap in Thailand and so, so worth it.
While you're around Chiang Mai make your way to a temple where you can participate in some monk chats. Yes, they're exactly what they sound like.
You get to sit around with monks in training and talk with them about anything and everything. I had a lovely conversation with a monk about the United States and what he should do when he visits.
A lot of people talked with them about religion, about becoming monks, feminism (because women can't be monks in Thailand), and life in general. I learned quite a lot about Buddhism in Thailand and even got to watch them give directions.
Elephant Nature Park (2 days; 1 night)
Seeing elephants is the thing to do in Thailand, right? Absolutely, and you definitely should. However, be aware that sanctuaries get booked up very quickly and those that are left are likely incredibly unethical.
If you can swim with the elephants it's probably not a good place. If you can ride the elephants it's definitely not a good place.
So, where did I go? Elephant Nature Park. And I splurged.
I thought it was probably a once in a lifetime opportunity for me, so I spent the money on a two day, one-night package. It was 100% worth it, but I had to book about a month in advance.
This nature park is a sanctuary for injured elephants. They find elephants who have been injured by land mines in the forest or who have been used for tourist entertainment and take them in. There were numerous elephants who had taped up feet, who were blind, and who had rips in their ears from being dragged around by handlers.
We did so many incredible things. We got to take a big tour of the grounds and see the elephants while they bathed in the river. After that, we had a really nice lunch, all vegetarian! If you stay the night at the ENP then you get to do a lot more than people there on a day trip. On our first day, we got to hand feed elephants. Later in the day, I ended up meeting the couple who started the sanctuary and they let us wander down on the river bank to watch the elephants.
The next morning I woke up to an elephant hanging out in the part of the river right outside my door! It was amazing.
On day two we got to have a more personalized walkthrough of the grounds. We even hand fed a blind elephant one by one.
Pai Where I stayed: Jikko Harem (2 days; 1 night)
I arrived in Pai by van. Everyone rants about the van ride being twisty and nauseating. I did not have that problem, but your mileage may vary.
Unfortunately, by the time I arrived in Pai, I was burnt out and became a homebody for a couple of days. Pai is ultimately a glorified hippy town, it's really not very Thai in any way except it's in Thailand.
The only useful way to get around is to rent a scooter for yourself. If you've never ridden a scooter before I do not recommend doing so for the first time in Thailand. It's a great way to end up in the hospital.
Pai is also a haven for mushrooms. The psychedelic kind. In milkshake form. I did not partake in any such activities, because anything that alters the state of your mind should be done somewhere that you feel safe and are comfortable. Plus, mushrooms are illegal. *cough*
If you came here for that kind of advice you'll have to look elsewhere. There are plenty of waterfalls to see and temples to visit just outside of town.
Chiang Rai Where I stayed: Mercy Hostel (2 days; 1 night)
I need to be honest here. I had done some reading about what to do in northern Thailand and decided that Chiang Rai sounded nice. I actually had no idea where it was in the country other than "north".
Chiang Rai is just over an hour away from the borders of Laos and Myanmar a.k.a. the golden triangle.
I liked Chiang Rai much more than I was expecting to. At this point I was going places nearby by Chiang Mai based on what the Internet told me was interesting, I really didn't know how to high to get my hopes up. Maybe it was better to have lower hopes because I really enjoyed it.
Funnily enough, I met another solo traveler in Pai at the Jikko Karen hostel and we met back up in Chiang Rai to run around together. While I love traveling by myself, sometimes it's nice to spend some time with people I connect with.
Anyway, there are so many things to do in Chiang Rai. We ended up just hiring someone to drive us around for most of the day. I'm really happy that we did because we got to experience something that was not on our original to-do list. And it was cheap!
First, we drove to Wat Rong Suea Ten (the Blue Temple) - วัดร่องเสือเต้น This temple is pretty new. So new, in fact, that it's still under construction. The main hall is completed and it's quite beautiful.
If you're wondering why it's called the Blue Temple, it's because it's blue. The interior of the main hall is all blue with a white Buddha in the center of the room. Cost: Free Note: There is no public transportation to this temple
We also stopped at Wat Huay Pla Kung (the Big Buddha) - วัดห้วยปลากั้ง It's 23 stories tall! This Buddha is particularly interesting because it 's one of the few female Buddha statues in Thailand. In fact, this statue isn't actually of a Buddha.
It's a representation of Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. During her lifetime she reaching enlightenment (or Nirvana) and continued to help others. She is known as a compassionate being who helps those who cry for help.
The grounds are also the home of many orphaned Thai children. I learned that there are monks who run the orphanage and they all maintain the grounds of the statue and 9-story temple.
They also help out the surrounding community. Honestly, this place is so wholesome. While we were there a few farmers brought in tons (literally) of pineapples to be distributed for free to people in the community who need a little bit of help.
There's also a free lunch to be had at the bottom of the hill! However, I strongly recommend leaving a donation.
Cost: free Fee to get to the top: 40 baht Note: There is no public transportation to this temple
Then we saw Wat Rong Khun (the White Temple) - วัดร่องขุ่น Cost: 50 baht You have to buy your ticket and then go in at a specific time. Note: There is public transportation there. Make your way to the bus terminal in the city center and find the rickety blue bus that says "white temple" on the side. The ride is 20 baht one way.
This place was a treat, but an absolute tourist stop. It's bizarre-looking. This temple is the brainchild of Chalermchai Kositpipat. Taking on some artistic liberties he combined white with Buddhist teachings of heaven, hell, karma, and earthly sins. The temple is filled with Buddhist symbolism in the layout, architecture, ornate reliefs and mirror decorations.
The only entrance you can use is the main entrance, which takes you over a narrow bridge over a "pool" of upturned, reaching hands representing suffering souls in hell. You can't turn back from here, the only way out is to ascend to heaven.
I could go on and on and on about what's inside this temple, but it wouldn't do it justice. Just go.
And while you're there you should wander through his art gallery which is right next door to the temple and free to get into. There are some... interesting pieces of art there. It's mostly focused on Buddhism and lots of colors. But there's also a painting of George W. Bush and Osama bin Laden riding a rocket in space.
Northern Thailand is not a place to miss, no matter what you do while you're there. I crammed a lot into my one week in the north and I wouldn't change it at all.